Figuring out how to upgrade my sound system is a total nightmare

"If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent" (essextee) 04/03/2016 at 21:49 • Filed to: blargh

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On a low-spec version of my car it’s as simple as any other vehicle, but I have the premium DSP audio. One of the main complaints about the system is lackluster bass response. It’s a rather low-power amp and most people bemoan the lack of “kick”. However, BMW has seemingly purposely made the system impossible to modify.

The head unit and DSP amp communicate with each other. If I replace the HU, the entire audio system stops working because the amp will only work if it receives a certain signal from the factory HU. So, to change the HU you also need to replace the amp. The DSP amp however is a 12-Channel, and the speakers are wired as such. You can’t really buy aftermarket 12 channel amps ( for cars at least ). In order to make the speakers work with an aftermarket amp you have to basically re-wire everything.

If you just change the amp, you again have to rewire extensively, and on top of that the HU sees that it’s not the “correct” amp and disables all the fancy DSP EQ settings, effectively downgrading it into a regular HU. You may also need a line out converter to hook the HU up to the aftermarket amp.

Thus, your options for modifying the DSP system are limited to:

Upgrade just the speakers

Tear out and replace the whole damn system.

Additionally, the Nokia woofers on the rear deck are built into a plastic enclosure that “vents” the sound into the cabin through small holes. To replace those you need to either build highly custom sub box that uses those vents, or make cut-outs in the hat shelf to install regular subs, which need to be shallow depth DVC.

(some of this info may or may not be entirely correct, it’s just what I’ve been able to glean from trawling forums)

And to top this all off I know absolutely nothing about audio and have never done anything more complicated than replacing a busted speaker.

Liam Farrell > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 21:56

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Ditched mine along time ago,

Weight savings bro.

Quadradeuce > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 21:59

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What kind of signal does the hu send to the amp? Can that be faked?

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Liam Farrell 04/03/2016 at 21:59

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you can’t have a sound system because then you wouldn’t be able to hear the parts falling off it.

unclevanos (Ovaltine Jenkins) > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:00

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I know DSP is pita to upgrade. Best option is the monsoon speaker upgrade.

Funktheduck > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:01

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Have you tried calling an install place? My friends that do it help people over the phone from time to time.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Quadradeuce 04/03/2016 at 22:02

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Apparently it’s some sorta secret handshake signal that can’t be spoofed.

Quadradeuce > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:04

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will keeping the old amp actually be helpful? Or is the point of this to replace the amp?

itranthelasttimeiparkedit > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:05

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Haha e39 problems. I am struggling with the same stuff. I want to keep a relatively OEM look though. I am going with tearing the amp out and letting it default to pre-outs. I am also ok running just a front stage + sub, the back door (and because I have a touring, the cargo area ceiling speakers) will be dead. I’ll probably run 4 or 6 channels to the front stage plus 1 to sub (i.e. 2 or 3 amps).

JCAlan > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:05

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If a lack of bass is your only complaint, can't you just tack on an independently powered subwoofer?

yitznewton > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:11

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I had a sort-of similar situation with the Monsoon system on my Mk4 Jetta, but it wasn’t this bad. The factory amp was mounted in the trunk, with wiring in from the HU and out to the speakers. I removed the amp, ziptied the amp’s in and out connectors together, and jumpered the appropriate wires. Then I just wired the new HU’s speaker-outs to the wires leading to the amp, and connected new speakers in place of the factory ones. This way I didn’t have to cut any wires at all, just drill out the rivets on the factory speakers.

BmanUltima's car still hasn't been fixed yet, he'll get on it tomorrow, honest. > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:11

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The previous owner of my E39 left the units wired in, sitting in the trunk.

Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:15

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Cheapest/ugliest option would be to just disconnect the stock subs from the stock amp and then use a line converter to put a traditional sub in the trunk.

Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:18

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That’s what I have in my E39. Easy. I’ve got the Dice Mediabridge for bluetooth as well. Both plug in easily without modifying a thing. All smiles over here.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To 04/03/2016 at 22:19

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Don’t want a trunk sub. Want cabin subs.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:21

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You either have to replace the speakers, or do a line-out conversion and add your own signal processor. By that time, why not rip everything out anyway?

Most of the BMW amps that aren’t the high end option aren’t that great anyway, and fat chance you will ever integrate with the data bus between it and the HU.

Kind of like the Bose Lux amps in the GM cars and trucks.

If you have a standard size opening ready to go, the way to do this is rip everything out and start fresh.

I did that on a Infiniti with the Bose system, and am planning to do that with the Silverado with the Bose system. The Silverado will be more fun since the sub box sits under the center console...

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Quadradeuce 04/03/2016 at 22:25

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Nothing wrong with the amp, but my subs are starting to thunk and need replacing. The problem is, the DSP amp doesn’t have that much power to motivate larger subs so just replacing the subs won’t necessarily make it sound any better.

deekster_caddy > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:26

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I would start with the speakers. The OEM sound quality is usually pretty good, but factory almost always cheaps out on the speakers.

FTTOHG Has Moved to https://opposite-lock.com > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:26

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I was going to suggest the same thing. Could the existing cabin subs sound better with their own amp? I would try hijacking their signal with a line converter and run a 2 ch. amp back to them.

-this space for rent- > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:27

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Here's a write-up on m3post about adding a sub. Im assuming you have a e9x http://www.m3post.com/forums/showthr…

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief 04/03/2016 at 22:27

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Don’t want a trunk sub, all they do is make the whole car shake and make you look like a tool, and I already have the wireless audio situation all figured out:

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/03/2016 at 22:30

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or do a line-out conversion and add your own signal processor

This is sausage to me. I know nothing about audio.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > -this space for rent- 04/03/2016 at 22:32

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E39.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > FTTOHG Has Moved to https://opposite-lock.com 04/03/2016 at 22:36

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My stock subs are starting to fail, which is what’s prompting this. I have to keep the bass set below half or they start thunking. I can buy a replacement assembly on eBay for $100 but the stock subs are incredibly shallow, which coupled with the low power amp makes for lousy bass. The DSP amp also has four channels devoted to the rear speakers, which are dual voice coils. A 2-channel amp would actually be a downgrade.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > deekster_caddy 04/03/2016 at 22:38

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Actually, aside from the bass it’s easily the best factory audio I’ve ever experienced.

TheOnelectronic > deekster_caddy 04/03/2016 at 22:39

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I would disagree. Factory speakers can do marvelous things, but OEM’s usually don’t have nearly enough power in the head unit to drive them without distortion. This has been my experience at least.

Liam Farrell > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:45

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I’m just going to leave it at, my mechanic says he relies on repeat customers

FTTOHG Has Moved to https://opposite-lock.com > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:47

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Jeez you're not kidding what a mess. Is there room in the stock enclosure for bigger subs? Could you grab just their signal to a separate amp?

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > FTTOHG Has Moved to https://opposite-lock.com 04/03/2016 at 22:51

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Stock enclosure is a sealed unit, and no other subs but the factory ones would fit in it anyway.

-this space for rent- > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 22:52

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E39? Why are you talking like you have something worth saving? Rip all that garbage out and start over.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > -this space for rent- 04/03/2016 at 22:54

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My budget would only be capable of upgrading individual components. BMW’s made it so that you can only upgrade the entire audio system. Can you see my problem?

JustJim > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 23:00

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I’ve replaced exactly 1 car audio system. I used Crutchfield (dot) com.

Some of the supplied equipment was incorrect but they shipped the correct equipment at no additional cost.

They even had a pre made adapter that eliminated the need to solder anything.

I recommended you add them to your research pool.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 23:05

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You’d need something like this JL Cleansweep DSP.

You would need to determine if you need to do a speaker-level to line-level conversion to feed the Cleansweep, and then program it to give you the flat left and right channels. Then you can feed the signal to a 5 channel amp, and drive your 4 speaker sets, and the sub.

The sub can also be driven separately if you get a main amp that does low pass to a sub output to a second mono amp.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/03/2016 at 23:15

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And why would I want mono sound? And what is low pass? And what is a speaker-level to line-level conversion? And where along the audio system is that thing installed?

-this space for rent- > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 23:15

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Save your pennies.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > -this space for rent- 04/03/2016 at 23:22

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I could totally redo the entire audio system If I wanted to, but I’m rather miserly. I would never be able to commit that much money to something unless it was incredibly important, which this isn’t.

FTTOHG Has Moved to https://opposite-lock.com > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 23:45

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Makes sense... Wonder what kind of shape the eBay replacement would be in. What a mess.

Textured Soy Protein > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/03/2016 at 23:53

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When I pull up an E39 with the DSP system on Crutchfield, they list the install parts needed to add a head unit to the car. You need a Metra 70-9003 wiring harness , apparently. If you buy a head unit they will give you all the install parts you need.

The Metra double-DIN bezel ain’t the prettiest thing, but Crutchfield throws it in for free.

The thread where I found these pictures mentions using a different Metra 70-8591 amp integration harness , but well, point is, parts are out there.

If you want something nicer looking, there’s the Janus Design bezel, that flows more with the lines of the dash:

Also it lends itself to cannibalizing the OEM little wood door that goes over the factory head unit, and cutting it to glue on to the top part of the Janus bezel:

tpw_rules > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 00:05

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I wouldn’t be surprised if the DSP engine was in the amplifier. The HU needs to program it before it will do anything (‘secret’ handshake) and if it’s missing, the HU doesn’t have the hardware to do DSP EQ, so it disables the options.

At least it’s better than the system in my Saab. Everything infotainment is on a fiber optic ring bus. This means failure or removal of any module (like OnStar) disables the entire system. Another fun fact: turn signals, danger buzzers, and other such noises are played through this system.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 00:09

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tl;dr - Rip it all out.

The following is an explanation of all the stuff that’s going into your question. It may have some more technical explanations than you are looking for, but let me know and I’ll simplify it further (since I just cranked this out between 11:30PM EDT and 12:08AM EDT)

A subwoofer is a single channel. It doesn’t do left-right imaging. Having two input channels for the sub is dumb, since low-frequency sounds are non-localizable (i.e. you cannot tell if it was on the right or the left, or behind you or in front of you).

This is why the .1 channel on 5.1 surround sound (the Low Frequency Effects channel, i.e. the subwoofer) can be placed anywhere, and the low frequencies are all routed to the same speaker.

So let’s trace this back. We’ll start at the head unit. The head unit produces stereo sound [2 channels, left and right] from its sources, like an iPod or a CD (because that’s all the have. We are ignoring surround sound for this example)

Now here’s where things are implementation dependent...

Most head units will output four circuits. Two will be tied to the left channel (on the left side of the car), and two will be tied to the right channel (on the right side of the car).

In your BMW, the circuits are not discrete electrical circuits. They are on a data bus. The Head Unit will send the 2 channel output to the amplifier, along with your requested DSP program. The amplifier has the DSP chip to process the 2 channel output and create the 12 circuits + sub circuit. These correspond to each driver (which BMW does, but most other makes will not do, because it costs more), and the subwoofer.

Wires go from the amplifier output terminals to each driver. Shazam, you have sound.

Now 12 discrete channels of amplification is really unnecessary, since if you think about it, you really have 4-6 main speaker locations in a sedan:
Front doors (2)
Back doors (2)
Parcel Shelf (0-2, depending upon manufacturer)

Ignoring the parcel shelf for a moment, we have 4 main locations, which generally will get their own amplifier channel.

This is why you normally find 4 channel amplifiers if you look for multichannel amplifiers.

But wait, we have 12 speakers! If we discount the two subs in the parcel shelf, that leaves us with 10. My suspicion is that it breaks down like this.
Left front door, 3 speakers
Right front door, 3 speakers
Left rear door, 2 speakers
Right rear door, 2 speakers

[For you audio types, now we are into component systems discussion]

Each of the 2 or 3 speakers in each door, is likely being fed with almost the exact same signal from the amplifier (depending on how powerful the DSP chip is). So in essence, what we have is a 3-way component system in each front door, and a 2 way component system in each rear door. BMW just amplifies each speaker separately. Most companies however, include the crossover network as part of the speakers (All the crossover does is send high frequency sound to the tweeters and low frequencies to the woofers).

Pictured: A two way component system with woofer and tweeter, with external crossover.

The idea with the aftermarket system is to drive the components in parallel so that you consolidate the load onto 4 channels (note that the number of amplifier channels is irrelevant, so long as it is 2 or greater for the door speakers)

The subwoofer, as stated before is on its own. It only needs one channel to drive it. Better amplifiers allow you to daisy chain the signal from the head unit, so that your door speakers get 2 or 4 channels of amplification from the stereo source (depending on the amp you buy) and can feed a mono subwoofer amp.

(Note: If you really want to get crazy fancy, you can drive sub stages of the left and right channels separately, and that is where you would need a low-pass filter between the head unit and the subs to only pass the frequencies that the subwoofer can reproduce. Note that this won’t be a perceptible difference than having a single mono sub for both left and right channel low frequencies)

Summary - So for your BMW, here’s how I would do it.

1) Accept the fact that you will lose the DSP. DSP as used in most implementations is designed to add effects to sound that really shouldn’t be there (e.g. concert hall, church, etc). It’s not a big loss.
1a) Accept that you will ditch the Nokia sub box completely.
2) Take the output from the head unit (assume 2 channels being output), and feed it into a JL Cleansweep, to remove any processing that the head unit does to the signal.
3) Feed the output of the JL Cleansweep to a 4 or 5 channel quality amplifier. You will have a 2 channel stereo connection going into the amplifier, so this means that you will not have adjustable fade capability (depending on your BMW head unit, it may output 4 channels to the amplifier, in which case you could do fading. Check a wiring diagram, and you may need multiple Cleansweeps to get enough channels to the amplifier).
4) If you have a 5 channel amplifier, set the 5th channel to do a low pass filter, and hook the subwoofer to that. If you have a 4 channel amplifier, get a quality mono amp for the sub, and feed the preout of the 4 channel amp to the preins of the mono amp for the sub. Set the low pass filter on the amp for the sub, and hook the sub to the output of the mono amp.
5) Tweak the Cleansweep to get the best response of the system

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 00:12

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Oh, and if the car “shakes” from a sub being installed, it was installed by a tool.

Proper installs do not do that.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > tpw_rules 04/04/2016 at 00:19

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Did your Saab get a GM Class 2 data bus, or is it new enough to be a CAN bus?

GM doing warning chimes through the radio goes all the way back to the introduction of the Entertainment and Comfort bus. That got replaced by Class 2 data, then MOST + CAN.

I have to deal with that changing the radio and speakers on the Silverado.

M54B30 > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 00:28

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I have DSP in my 530i and it makes installing an aftermarket aux in line brutally tough.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > FTTOHG Has Moved to https://opposite-lock.com 04/04/2016 at 00:42

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The two drivers in that enclosure from a little googling appear to be two 5.25" drivers. You aren’t going to get much out of those no matter what.

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 01:30

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Excellent all around. Unfortunately it’s probably over 99% of opponaut’s heads.

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 01:47

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Trunk subs are only that way if installed by shit head mouth breathers. Turn the level down so you can hear/feel a little extra bass without shaking the car apart. 200w isn’t really that much, especially compared to what most tools have in their trunks. FYI, the burmester equipped S-class loses a few cubic feet of trunk space to sounds system components, and many factory subs are mounted in the parcel shelf which is basically the trunk.

You could also try onlinecarstereo.com to see if they have any shallow small diameter subs that would fit. I bought a ton of stuff from them in my younger (admittedly toolarific) stereo days. They have a ton of stuff, including things in weird sizes and specifications.

Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 02:37

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Allow me to comment on three points:

- Bass is non directional to the human ear, so where the sub is doesn’t matter. Trunk or in cabin, you’ll never know. Physics.

- Your second sentence said you wanted better bass. Then you expounded on the difficulty of acheiving it, when there is none.

- You’re worried about looking like a tool. Yet you use a cassette adapter in your tape deck but you are particular about the subs you do not have.

I am looking forward to seeing your soultion.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 05:57

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Hey guess what I’ve never installed a sub before. What are the chances of it being an professional job?

Echo51 > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 06:45

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Get an Amp with Hi-level/Speaker level inputs for signal instead of Low-level/RCA, hook up instead of stock sub, and wham bam, proper sub.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 07:31

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You can get the desired result. You just cannot rush the job.

There’s nothing *difficult* about doing an install. You just need to be careful and methodical. A good tutorial or sub box kit coupled with good fastening to the metal structure of the car will yield good results.

And Dynamat (or similar) helps too.

nafsucof > TheOnelectronic 04/04/2016 at 07:32

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Right the poor sound is usually the weak factory amps at the top of their power giving a shitty signal.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > AMGtech - now with more recalls! 04/04/2016 at 07:46

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I may turn it into an actual post when I finally get around to doing the Silverado stereo. I did a bit stream of consciousness, so it could be cleaned up.

I mean, nothing about this is hard, per se. But it is super easy to take shortcuts that yield trunk shakers and in OPs mind, looking like a tool.

I mean, if Crutchfield (whatever you think of them) can make a whole business off of “You too can replace your radio and speakers”...

I’m self taught in mobile acoustics (took one audio DSP class at university), so I’m aware I know jack about this. But I did a full install in my Infiniti (before I sold it), and need to fix the broken radio in the Chevy.

tpw_rules > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 07:54

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My 03 is MOST and CAN. Wanted to remove the OnStar module since all it did was give an error every time I started the car. Quickly found out I needed to special order a fiber optic looper so everything else could still work.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief 04/04/2016 at 07:56

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With regards to the tape adapter, that’s only useful when you don’t want to take everything apart to add a direct adapter.

Or you want to keep the original factory look. Which is fine as a system goal, but you have to be aware of the trade offs.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > tpw_rules 04/04/2016 at 08:00

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MOST will do that, as it is a ring topology. Add CAN bus on top for other module communication and it’s a nightmare when something goes wrong or is removed.

MOST has been around for a while too. My 1999 Merc had an option for a six disc changer: the connection to the radio (along with the optional telephone unit) was a MOST bus.

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 10:08

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I think the hardest part about about a job like this is getting over yourself mentally. It sounds much worse than it is BECAUSE ELECTRICAL!

Give yourself more credit, you obviously have a decent idea about how it all works. In fact, I think you have better knowledge on the subject than half of the “installers” out there.

jmedarts > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 10:50

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See what these guys have: http://www.bavsound.com

I have received excellent, friendly help from them, even on stuff I didn’t buy from them.

My e39 had the lower grade audio, and it was hard enough to deal with, so I can imagine the frustration that DSP adds.

If you can get a DiCE unit installed, or a mediabridge you will like it much, much better than that cassette adapter. I did my own, with help from bavsound, and liked it so much I even found & installed a GROM unit for my wife’s Acura.

I wish someone made an equivalent for my e90.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 11:22

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Very informative, but unfortunately I don’t want to pony up the amount of money it would take to redo the whole system. I have better things to save my money for. I think I’m going to settle for replacing the failing rear subs with some aftermarket ones. I could probably fit ones an inch deeper than the stock ones without losing too much cargo space, and DCVs (if I understand them correctly) will make the most of the low amp output.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief 04/04/2016 at 11:40

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I do have subs, they’re just starting to fail, which is what’s prompting all this. I’d have to buy a used stock unit off eBay, which is always a crapshoot. So, I‘m trying to use this as an opportunity to make upgrades, but unfortunately BMW has made it so you have to replace the entire audio system if you want to do so. This requires knowledge that I do not have and money that I’d rather save for more important things. My lamentation is that you can’t really upgrade individual components like you can in a normal audio system.

And how exactly does a completely hidden bluetooth adaper make me look like a tool?

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 12:00

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Oh, and the way my system is broken down is 3 speakers in the front doors, 1 in each rear, and 2 dual coil subs that get two channels each for a total of 12.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > AMGtech - now with more recalls! 04/04/2016 at 12:08

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That’s because most of the installers take shortcuts when installing. If you do things slowly and methodically, it all works out.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 12:21

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So the closest thing to a drop in replacement would be a shallow dual voice coil sub. The BMW amp will still only likely have about 35W/channel, so you aren’t going to get much out of it, but you will get a speaker that isn’t broken down through aging.

The only thing that concerns me is the structural rigidity of the parcel shelf. You could do a box vented through the existing holes, but if you don’t want response spikes (i.e. booms), I’d find a way to do a sealed box and work from there.

Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 12:29

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You said sub in the trunk was tool-like. I was saying that the sub wouldn’t be noticed and would have the same audio properties as a sub inside of the cabin. Then I pointed out the the cassette adapter that you posted the pic of probably was more a questionable look than the sub, which I meant in jest.

You’re absolutely correct that this system does not allow you to modify a damn things without ripping it all out completely. You’d even have to run new wiring, if I remember correctly. So it’s impossible to do unless you use the few plug and play options that are out there. I still stand by my recommendation that the Basslink is fine for what it is, which doesn’t mater so much anyway as you hit then nail on the head: there aren’t options. Also, the Basslink is plugged directly into the factory amp that is in your trunk which is why it’s normally mounted in the trunk, but it comes with plenty of wire. You can actually mount it anywhere, but it’s far too clunky to neatly hide under a seat or anything but if you have some creative inspiration it’ll go wherever you’d like to mount it.

KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 12:30

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Tape decks use magnetic fields to generate the sound, and that means they are affected by interference (the old dreaded tape hiss was due to the magnetic particles on the tape being read as sound).

This is why tape decks often had noise reduction, otherwise known as what Ray Dolby is really famous for (Audio signal noise reduction on magnetic tape)

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 13:59

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Non dsp cars have speakers mounted directly to the parchel shelf, and supposedly on the sheet metal there’s still a stamping where the cutout would be had dsp not been optioned.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 14:05

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The sound quality on mine is actually super good, not quite CD quality but waaaay better than FM, and I’ve got both Dolby B and C at my disposal. I don’t experience any noise.

It turns on and connects automatically when the tape deck is fired up, and only needs to be charged once per week. No need to spend money on a bluetooth input device when this works perfectly fine for me.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief 04/04/2016 at 14:12

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I fill my trunk regularly, which also a driving force behind not wanting a trunk sub. I guess I’ve never been in a car with a properly done sub then, because every car I’ve ever been in with one has been a nuisance to everyone within 50 yards. I like to keep things low-key, so I’d prefer to discretely improve my audio rather than go all-out and start adding things.

Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 14:26

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It does take up space, and what I did rather than mount it permanently was mount the “legs” on the sub and between the carpet and two well placed bungie cords it hasn’t moved in two+ years. I didn’t want to drill into the car and I can pull it out in 5 minutes and the car is back to bone stock. It also comes with a “remote” which is a volue knob on a long wire that you can run up to the driver’s seat, but it looks tacky and I never bothered to run it — it lives in the trunk with the sub. You can adjust not only the bass in your stereo (obviously) but the remote allows you to keep it super mellow or turn it way up and advertise your rattling license plate and exhaust mounts to all of your neighbors.

I think if most people heard what shit their car and loud stereo actually sounded like outside of the car they’d quit doing it. I hate that shit too.

The 540i is getting new brakes and some other errata fixed on it at the moment, but if I get it back today or tomorrow I’ll take a pic and/or video. It’s not at all ghetto. I know what you’re trying to avoid, and think you’d like it more in practice than you might in theory.

deekster_caddy > TheOnelectronic 04/04/2016 at 15:31

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Sometimes. It depends when it is from!

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 15:38

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Mostly. But there are quite a few who just don’t know anything, usually more like the best buy and chain store installers. Also, good luck getting then to work slowly.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs 04/04/2016 at 16:26

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I know what I’m going to do now:

NJAnon > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 17:22

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www.crutchfield.com

Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief > If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent 04/04/2016 at 17:50

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Turns out I can’t stream music and take video at the same time so I took two pics. Hopefully helpful. That’s where I leave the sub volume 95% of the time. Anything louder and things start rattling. Also, some songs just have a ton of bass and frankly don’t sound all that good unless I turn it down even more. Running the volume knob to the front of the car is more hassle than popping the trunk on occasion and I think that knob would look ghetto. My interior is tan.

The whole thing plugs in on the left side where I used to have the 6 disk changer which is long gone. It plugs straight in; super easy install. Took me 15 minutes to get it going. It’s no miracle worker but the stereo sounds a lot better than it did before.

If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent > Flynorcal: pilot, offshore sailor, car racer and panty thief 04/04/2016 at 19:53

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I think I’m gonna go with this:

Connecting wires and drilling some holes is definitely not above my skill level, and it preserves much of the original wiring setup.